Here are my tools, ready to go. My 2 rulers, a picture of the vest I will be making for my daughter Anna, a photo copy of the little patterns I will need to use and the Lutterloh kit that holds the tape measure, push pin and tape.
I have taken Anna's measurements over a shirt, which is how she intends wearing her vest. Her bust measurement is between sizes on the tape so I have used the measurement above her size.
I like to colour code my little patterns before I start. In this case I have used a green hilighter for the waist and above measurements and a pink hilighter for all measurements below the waist. On the top of the pattern copy I make a note of the measurements I am using and hilight them as well. It takes no time to do this and I find it helps me keep on track and to remember to use the two different measurements when drafting.
I have taped the little pattern picture to my drafting paper (I use an end-of-roll newspaper print) and have extended each of the lines and made my dots. I won't go into great details about this process as it is readily available on many other sites, including www.dressmaking.co.nz/.
When my pattern pieces were drafted I cut them out without seam allowances. This is the first time I have done it this way as usually I add the seam allowances first so I can pin the pattern together for fitting. Thought I would try it this way as I've been told it is much easier to fit around the neck and armholes without the seam allowances getting in the way.
So here is the finished pattern, taped together at the shoulder and side seam with the front bust shoulder dart taped in place also. I have transferred the markings for centre front and waist line and back and front waist darts. The waist darts will be adjusted on Anna. For myself, I don't use the waist darts at all, but as her figure is more hour-glass than rectangle, I suspect she will want them. As Anna and I are both generously endowed around the bust we have always needed an FBA using the Big 4s. I was pleasantly surprised to find that I didn't need to do this with the Lutterloh system and am keen to see how this system will work for Anna. I have packed up my pattern, tools and camera and will tissue-fit the pattern tonight.